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Yashin

Koshihikari Echigo Beer
Nouvelle cuisine du Japon!  This was some seriously good food, but certainly not adhering to the traditional methods of preparing sushi - rice-fish-wasabi-soy-ginger.  Add blow torching, cross hatched scoring, ponzu jelly topping, spring onion garnish, shiso petals and wasabi leaves into the mix - and that little list is an indication of what Yashin is doing with its fish.  Yashin looks pretty pretentious from the outside, but stepping up into the restaurant we were welcomed by the classic chant of "Irasshaimase!" from the chefs behind the counter, and the beaming smile of the hostess.  The décor is a mix of technological Tokyo and old school London gentleman's club.  Sounds a bit incongruous, but it kind of works.  I'd booked earlier in the week, and had been assigned a table downstairs, instead of at the high ceilinged main room.  Our coats and bags were taken when we arrived at the table, and we sat at a chesterfield style banquette, one of 6 or 7 tables downstairs.  That vaguely pretentious atmosphere pervaded a little downstairs, with deep house emanating from the B&W speakers in the walls.  But hey, I like a bit of that, so I'm not complaining, just noting for those that hate that kind of thing. Please excuse the awful photos too, because it was a little too dark to expect decent images out of my phone.
Wagyu and wasabi sauce carpaccio
I ordered a Koshihikari Echigo beer, apparenty made with a prestigious brand of rice.  My better half plumped for a regular old Kirin.  We started with Wagyu and wasabi sauce carpaccio.  We think there was maybe a little myoga in the sauce, which was essentially delicious.  The beef itself was seared and topped with cracked black pepper and julienne Shiraga-Negi onion.  As you might expect, the meat melted in the mouth, with the pepper and onion beautifully complementing the beef.  A truly accomplished dish.

On to the main course.  We both opted for "The Yashin" - a £60, 15 piece sushi set, served in 2 parts.  The cover of the menu states “without soy sauce, but if you want to”. My wife was sceptical, to say the least, at this lack of essential accompaniment.  Being a Tokyoite, she is an unabashed sushi traditionalist, but kept an open mind having been suitably impressed with the opening course. When our order was taken, my wife was asked if we had any particular likes or dislikes when it came to the available sushi ingredients.  This was all communicated in her native language, of which, I ashamedly admit, have a rather limited understanding.  But that only contributed to the rather enjoyable feeling that I could have been 7500 miles away, and not in a Kensington basement.  Each piece of sushi is treated with its own seasoning, be that soy, salt, wasabi or a gently blow torch.  Additionally a garnish is placed on many of the pieces, to bring out the delicate flavours of each fish.  This turns out to be pretty stunning stuff.  Amazing quality fish and these gentle and inspired twists on flavour combine to fantastic effect.  No, it's not cheap, but I think it was worth it.  I ordered another Echigo, and my other half decided to try the Prucia plum liqueur, of which there were 20 or so bottles of, lined up on the bar over my right shoulder.  Served with crushed ice, this western take on Japanese plum wine was really quite special.  So much so, that we asked where one can purchase it - Selfridges, and Whole Foods apparently (so we headed down the road and picked up a bottle straight after the meal!).  If you are partial to plum fine, then you really should try it.  The second plate of sushi arrived, and was as good as the first.  The blow torched pieces I personally found especially tasty.  The charred flavours really accented the fish well.  Oishii!  We finished off the meal with Sencha (green tea) ice cream, served with a little fruit salad, and eaten with little wooden spades.  We're interested to see if this place will pick up a Michelin star next year.  It's definitely worthy.  This is some of the best fish we've had outside of Japan, and if you're willing to pay the price, and keep an open mind about the chef's innovations - it's absolutely worth a visit.


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